PARIS FASHION WEEK 2023 – BEST FASHION SHOWS SPRING-SUMMER 2024 COLLECTIONS

Happy to share with you our selection of the Paris Fashion Week shows announcing the spring-summer 2024 collections straight from Paris…. with great music, atmosphere and of course top fashion.

DIOR

Dior | Spring Summer 2024 by Maria Grazia Chiuri

Tune in for the unveiling of the Dior Spring-Summer 2024 show by Maria Grazia Chiuri, live recorded from Paris. Also check the impressions of the event experience and the new collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri.

© Video: Daniel Darmon

Maria Grazia Chiuri is an Italian fashion designer known for her work in the fashion industry. She was born on February 14, 1964, in Rome, Italy. Chiuri has had a significant impact on the world of fashion, particularly during her tenure as the Creative Director of the iconic French luxury fashion house, Christian Dior.

She began her career in fashion in the 1980s and gained experience working at various fashion houses, Fendi, where she worked for over 20 years alongside Karl Lagerfeld. In 2016, she made history by becoming the first woman to hold the position of Creative Director at Christian Dior.

Under Chiuri’s leadership, Christian Dior has continued to be a prominent and influential force in the fashion industry. She is known for her feminine and feminist approach to fashion design, often incorporating themes of empowerment, gender equality, and women’s rights into her collections. Chiuri has also emphasized the importance of craftsmanship and heritage in her designs, drawing inspiration from the house’s rich history while infusing it with her modern vision.

One of her most famous creations at Dior is the “We Should All Be Feminists” T-shirt, which became a symbol of her commitment to promoting gender equality. This shirt featured a quote from Nigerian author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay and TED Talk of the same name.


RICK OWENS

Rick Owens | Spring Summer 2024 by Richard Saturnino Owens

This years Paris Fashion Week shows challenged conformity, and Rick Owens was no different. This SS24 season, Rick Owens proved to us why his black, haunting aesthetic is here to stay. Find the show above to see the beautiful show.

Rick Owens based in Paris, known for his experimental black aesthetic. His commitment to the colour black in his shows has earned him the nickname ‘Lord of Darkness’ in the fashion industry. Furthermore, He started eponymous label began in the early nineties right after he dropped out of high school.

Owens, whilst successful in his own right, became a household name after French Vogue ran an image of Kate Moss wearing one of his leather jackets. Owens was able to utilise the momentum with assistance from Anna Wintour and American Vogue. The publication even sponsored his first show at New York Fashion Week’s Spring/Summer 2002 season. But it is truly his constant exploration and reinvention which assures his brands relevance.

For SS24, Owens and his team wanted to focus on the construction and craftmanship of the garments, wanting to create something “grim, strict and elegant”. Additionally, the runway was home an almost extra-terrestrial experience, with black-eyed models stalk the runway, adorned with black sharp silhouettes and platforms.


KWK by Kay Kwok

KWK | The Spring Summer 2024 by Kay Kwok

Kay Kwok is a Chinese designer. He debuted his collection to critical acclaim at London Fashion Week in 2013 and is known for his futuristic and contemporary menswear. Based in Hong Kong, he studied at Hong Kong Polytechnic before moving to the London College of Fashion.

During this time, he interned with Alexander McQueen. Kwok reached early fame after his graduate collection placed first in the international fashion competition, Mittelmoda, as a result, he was the first Chinese Designer to win the award.

For the SS24 season and under Kay Kwok’s creative direction, the fashion house truly cemented it’s appreciation of gender fluidity and expression. The looks were bold, and experimental, with futuristic elements. Kwok focused on defying tradition, challenging gender binaries through avant-garde silhouettes and designs. Evocative and artistic, Kwok’s SS24 collection was truly out of this world.

Just like his SS23 collection, music was incorporated and celebrated in his Paris Fashion Week show. The catwalk opened to the elegant sound of violins, but it was the ending song that stole the show. Lastly, imbued with emotion, Kwok placed a piece of himself on the runway. The song was an emotional ode to Coco Lee, a close friend and collaborator of Kwok’s who passed away. Coco Lee was an international pioneer and pop singer, the two collaborated for Lee’s 2019 tour. A beautiful way to end the poignant and expressive catwalk.


Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe | The Spring Summer 2024 by Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe is a Tokyo based fashion designer. Born in Fukushima in 1961, he graduated from Bunka Fashion College and immediately joined Comme des Garçons as a pattern cutter and underling for Rei Kawakubo. Three years later, Watanabe began designing the Comme des Garçons Tricot line, and after a further five years he introduced his first own-label collection in 1992.

Junya Watanabe cemented himself as a masterful designer through his renowned innovative style. A true pioneer, his exploration of new cutting concepts and draping techniques have become celebrated within the design industry. Japanese designer Junya Watanabe constantly goes against tradition, founding his own sculptural universe and inviting us to participate.

Watanabe showcased his pioneering ability in his SS24 collection. His designs were more than just clothing, they were a artistic statement. Watanabe showcased architectural silhouettes, with sharp lines, explorations into Watanabe’s signature leather and triangular shapes, the SS24 collection showcases the beauty and art of fashion and design.


Comme Des Garçons

Comme Des Garçons | The Spring Summer 2024 by Rei Kawakubo

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese designer who entered the industry after taking a job at a textiles factory. This lead to her pursuing a career in styling in 1967. A few years later, Kawakubo began designing clothes under the label Comme Des Garçons. The designer incorporated the label in 1973, influenced by her popularity in the Japanese market. For the remainder of the decade, Kawakubo built up the Comme Des Garçons brand, opening a Tokyo boutique in 1975 and adding a menswear line, Homme Comme des Garçons, in 1978.

Colour was a focus point for this years Paris Fashion Week shows, and it was clearly on Kawakubo’s mind. Rei Kawakubo described her head space when it came to the SS24 collection, “To break free of the gloomy present,” she wrote, “I hope to present a bright and light future.”. Cascading onto the runway came floral, layered pieces, and explosion of fauna onto the catwalk. Bright, voluminous ensembles with belted waistbands, followed by geometrical biker shorts in primary hues. Furthermore, Flowers and plants blossomed across ruffled coats, whilst patterns clashed and contrasted, in a beautiful harmony of experimentation and colour. The SS24 collection turned Paris Fashion Week into an Eden of our own making.

The music composition by ADC 303 played a crucial role in transporting the audience ‘Beyond Reality.’ The music truly created an immersive experience, with haunting, romantic melody playing over each design.


Alexander McQueen 

Alexander McQueen | The Spring Summer 2024 by Sarah Burton

Sarah Burton began her career at Alexander McQueen as an intern. This year, Burton announced she was stepping down from the brand, after having worked for the brand for 26 years. She was appointed Head of Design for womenswear in 2000, and became Creative Director of the entire brand in May 2010. Since taking the helm, Burton produced various acclaimed collections. Her work was highly artisanal, with her team hand crafting most of their garments.

In her last SS24 collection, Burton elevated the female form. Burton used fitted silhouettes, through sharp tailoring, accompanied by sculpted bras and nipped waists. The influence of David Sims was a constant motif, with his photographic print of a red rose being shown on Burton’s slip dress design. There were anatomically broidered bodysuits, and dresses details reworked from original illustrations by Amé Bourdon from the National Library of Medicine. Finally, Burton said an emotional goodbye to her audience. Her Legacy, and creativity will not be forgotten for decades to come.

The spot-light, polished stage was met with realistic bird calls and rumbling sounds that created an unnerving atmosphere, transporting the audience into Burton’s world. “The show is dedicated to Lee Alexander McQueen,” read the show notes, “whose wish was always to empower women, and to the passion, talent, and loyalty of my team.”


HERMÉS | The Spring Summer 2024 by Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski

French-born Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski is the Artistic Director of HERMÉS Women’s Ready-to-Wear. She presented her first HERMÉS Show for the Autumn/Winter Womanswear collection in 2015. Prior to this, she became Artistic Director of the HERMÉS Women’s Ready-to-Wear in 2014. Cybulski has often been praised for her minimalist, functionality in her designs. This years Paris Fashion Week Shows were truly a sight to behold, and HERMÉS did not disappoint.

Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski explained her mindset behind her SS24 collection, describing her exploration with the colour red: “Passion, power, sexiness – of course – and sophistication.” This influence is clear on the catwalk, with a focus on mauve and bright red, before moving into more muted colours. Her catwalk was a truly feminine, and powerful showcase of HERMÉS style. Exploring timeless and sophisticated pieces with a contemporary twist.

The atmosphere of the show, as HERMÉS describes on their website a “In the freshness of a meadow, spring is turning to summer”. The catwalk was adorned with a harmonious meadow, with models walking between tall grass and flowers. A melody of bird song accompanied the stage, truly enveloping the audience in Vanhée-Cybulski’s vision.


Maison Margiela

Co-Ed Collection | Spring Summer 2024 by John Galliano

John Galliano’s legacy in fashion is a difficult one to succinctly describe. He studied fashion design at Central St Martins, before starting his own eponymous label in London. He has worked for various brands such as Givenchy, and Christian Dior before he became Creative Director of Maison Margiela in 2014. Galliano’s feminine, intricate and at times haunting designs, especially in womenswear, have cemented him as a renowned designer in the fashion industry.

The Maison Margiela SS24 collection imbued intricate tailoring with a theatrical flair, with classic elements elevated with striking patterns of polka dots, knee length coats and wool underlays. And then, Feathered outerwear and tulle-trimmed gowns took the runway for a truly magical element, while traditional trench coats counteract the feminine frocks.

Galliano started the show with the powerful song “Masculinity” by Lucky Love. Luc Bruyère or Lucky Love as he is known,is incredibly talented and multi-faceted, known for modelling, acting and singing. He released his third single ‘Masculinity’ in 2022. Lucky Love celebrates queerness and identity, a sentiment that was showcased in the SS24 Paris Fashion Week show.


Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent | Spring Summer 2024 by Anthony Vaccarello

Hailing from Paris Fashion Week the iconic show – Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. Tune in above to see the iconic show unfold.

Anthony Vaccarello is an Belgian-Italian fashion designer. He is the current creative director of Yves Saint Laurent. Prior to this position, he was creative director at Versus Versace. Vaccarello’s journey to fashion wasn’t obvious at first, completed one year of law school before enrolling at La Cambre to study sculpture, before switching to fashion and graduating in 2006.

For the Paris Fashion Week show SS24 season, Vaccarello was inspired by era-defining female pilots and aviators. He wanted to explore their ruthless attitudes in their field, producing a dynamic collection showcasing a graceful practicality. Furthermore, Khaki-colored bottoms were paired with buttoned tank tops creating a sophisticated, relaxed fit. Oversized sunglasses and head caps, and leather gloves shield their wearers truly showcased Vaccarello’s influences.

When it comes to Saint Laurent, it would not be a catwalk show without the incredible music by producer SebastiAn, a long-term collaborator of the brand. Sébastien Akchoté-Bozović is a French producer and DJ, renowned for his unique style of glitchy, distortion-heavy electro-house.


Acne Studios

Acne Studios | Spring Summer 2024 by Jonny Johansson

Jonny Johansson is the Creative Director and Co-founder of Acne Studios. Johansson founded the company in 1996 as part of creative collective and wanted to create something innovative and creative. He cites his non-traditional fashion education, where he learnt on the go, as the reason for his unique take on fashion and design.

For this Paris Fashion Week Show Johansson celebrated the feminine identity. Every piece within the collection was an experience. There was a true, raw, unfiltered energy to the pieces, an unabashed celebration of femininity. Drawing inspiration from the experiences and “essentials” of womanhood, it was clear Johansson and his team were looking to subvert the norms with this collection. Prints were stretched across tight fitting dresses and sets, creating a deconstructed look. The show notes explain “It also comes from the idea of a construction site: things are unfinished, a work in progress”.

The pounding, vibrant music was the handiwork of electronic duo Giant Swan, currently based in the United Kingdom, the pair is known for their aggressive, intense dance music.


Ann Demeulemeester

Ann Demeulemeester | Spring Summer 2024 by Stefano Gallici

Stefano Gallici made his debut as creative director during this years Paris Fashion Week. Thus, the audience was eagerly excited to see what kind of message Gallici would like to showcase. What elements from previous shows would he include? How different would his collection be? As the SS24 collection was unveiled, it was clear elements of 90s Ann Demeulemeester were explored, with a grunge, experimental take. Watch above to see Gallici’s debut collection.

In the designer’s words, this is a collection that offers the freedom “to build personal mindscapes, and dress them accordingly, using items of clothing that are attentively defined to appear undefined, enticing ways to play with each piece to make it one’s own.” Gallici predominantly focused on black and white colour ways, with pops of colour and nostalgia through a deep blue shade that evoked 90s Ann Demeulemeester. The Paris Fashion Week collection explored draping silhouettes using tassels, and long trousers, alongside sheer fabric creating a grunge, sensual look to the designs.

The music for the show was produced by Milan-based DJ Auggië, known for his metallic and harmonious sound, his music perfectly encapsulates the fluid identity of the SS24 show.


Zimmermann

Zimmerman | Spring Summer 2024 by Nicky Zimmermann

Click above to see the ethereal SS24 collection by Nicky Zimmerman, a true exploration of colour and texture.

Nicky Zimmerman, started her eponymous label with her sister, Simone Zimmerman in 1991. Zimmerman is known for it’s generous use of colour and print to curate feminine and sophisticated designs. And for this SS24 collection, this was no different.

For their Spring 2024 Ready-To-Wear collection, Zimmermann brought a magical world of flora to Paris. Creative Director Nicky Zimmermann and the design team explored elements of fluid, feminine colour ways, focusing on movement and flow of the design. Furthermore, Gentle sheer prints, 3D embellishments and billowing sleeves created a romantic look on the runway. For the SS24 collection, the airy, flowing, colourful designs create a sense of rebirth and a playful excitement for the future.


Coperni

Coperni | Spring Summer 2024 by Sébastien Meyer

Discover the melodic Coperni SS24 collection by Sébastien Meyer, a celebration into the union between art, fashion and music.

Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant are the French designers behind womenswear label Coperni Femme. In May 2015, the duo were appointed artistic directors of the revamped heritage fashion brand Courrèges, a position they held for just over two years. Together, they founded Coperni in 2013, with Sébastien Meyer as Creative Director, and Arnaud Valliant as CEO.

This Paris Fashion Week shows season, Coperni’s show was a masterclass in the sheer and metallic. Thus, these contrasting elements adorned the catwalk, with models strutting down the stage in barely-there outfits. The pieces became a union between the clothing and sound, speakers were worked into leather jackets. Furthermore, the beloved Coperni Swipe bag was transformed into a metal CD player bag, reminiscent of the 1984 Sony Walkman. 

The COPERNI SS24 collection is presented within an acoustic chamber at IRCAM; a legendary institution of radical experimentation in sound.

Alongside this, the soundtrack was composed by musician u.r.trax truly brings together Coperni’s musical vision. His music creates an immersive soundscape, where we “hear” the spirit of the clothes. This symphonic composition, “Forms of Attunement”, was created during a 6-month residency at IRCAM. He uses the sounds of clothing items in the composition the gentle sound of sequins embroidery, the metallic sounds of zips and talons, truly cement this orchestra of fabric and music.


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