Serbian designer Maria Chany is a storyteller at heart. Her collections mirror her personal questions and opinions on crucial themes such as diversity, the future of humanity and planet, and our sense of belonging. This July, she made her debut at Berlin Fashion Week with her Terraforming collection.
Her previous collection, NEW WORLD, hinted at the idea of consensual ‘abduction’ by aliens, suggesting an escape from Earth’s recent turmoil. During a presentation at KEYI Magazine’s Berlin Fashion Week event earlier this year, she transported us to distant places, offering a glimpse of a harmonious new world. Now, however, the designer seems to be reflecting on what we will actually leave behind after departing from our biological home.
Shiny, metallic fabrics evoke futuristic, visions reminiscent of 1960’s space age wear. With strong, exaggerated silhouettes on shoulders and thighs, these knights of the new age symbolize the guardians of our future.
Maria Chany’s latest collection, Terraforming, seems to reflect on the ‘space craze’ – our fascination with space exploration. As the possibility of venturing into space becomes more tangible to us all, so does the human quest to find habitable planets outside our solar system. This fascination was particularly strong back in the 1960s, fueled by the Cold War and the race for technological dominance, sparked by the launch of Sputnik – the first man-made Earth satellite. Designers like André Courrèges, Rudi Gernreich, Paco Rabanne, and Pierre Cardin soon drew inspiration from this space age, envisioning a futuristic woman in sleek, metallic outfits, helmets, and goggles, often featuring go-go boots using innovative materials like plastic and vinyl.
Yet, while space exploration has driven significant advancements, it also left us with environmental and social consequences, including space debris and increased global tensions. Now, as social and ecological crises close in on us, many feel an overwhelming urge to escape. The multitude of problems seems insurmountable and exhausting. We dream of leaving our corrupted home, Earth, behind.
“Why are we investing in creating synthetic paradises elsewhere instead of making efforts to make our Earth a habitable place?” – Maria Chany
If we simply flee to a new planet, we risk repeating the same mistakes, perpetuating a cycle of destruction. Maria Chany challenges us to rethink this escape ideology, urging us to confront our current crises and restore our home, Earth, rather than seeking refuge elsewhere.
Ethereal white garments with dramatic oversized sleeves or lace clash with sturdy, shiny leather and metallic details. Does this juxtaposition highlight the tension between the delicate, dreamlike aspirations of space exploration and the tough reality of abandoning a broken world?
The term ‘Terraforming’ can be described as transforming a planet to make it habitable for humans. A fitting title for Chany’s collection. Through her garments she delicately explores our dreams of reaching the stars, while reminding us to address the problems we’ve caused on Earth first. May the knights of the new age inspire us to tackle these challenges and begin repairing our world.
Show credits
Show Director: Daniel Yu @whereinthewordisdaniel
Art Director: BOW creative agency / Jovana Nikolic @jo_itsurgent
Casting/Model Advocate: Jazz Ameniah @vagabond.jazz assisted by Mugen Collective
Video Visuals: Taiaba Binte Amin @litolpotato
Music: @Dfaniks_ & @cinettica_fashion_festival
Head Makeup Artists: Chie Yamamoto @vamamotoartistry, Nneoma Amanda Okoroj @nneoma.makeupartist
Head Hair Stylists: Takuya Usami @takuya_hair_berlin, Beanne @hairtouchedbybe
Choreographers: Emanuele Corsini @emanuele_corsini, Patrick Santos @patrick_santos3
Jewelry: Genevieve the Label @genevieve.thelabel
Guest management: Mugen Creative @mugen.collective, Supawan Dara Qsupiie
Oksana Moupasiridou @snowrust, Jourdan Dorn @jourleighofficiel
Location: Manifesto Potsdamer Platz @manifestomarket.berlin
Set Design/Partner Photographer: @ozjohn.photo
Hair products: @milbon_germany supplied by @iramasure
Visit chanymaria.studio and follow @chany.maria
Author: Kelly van Gemert (@jawclenching)
